Gwendolynne Burkin is one of Melbourne’s iconic designers, for thirty years she has created beautiful, elegant, stunning garments. Not only as a designer, but also as a talented maker of intricate pieces.
“I am a fashion designer in the sense that I conceptualise collections, silhouettes, textiles, emotion, and storytelling, but I am also deeply connected to the craft of making. Making takes a much bigger component of the time so I would say maker takes centre stage in my practice.
“But I am always designing in my head. My work is very hands on, couture based and rooted in artisanal techniques. I think the soul of fashion lives in both the vision and the creation.”
ENDURING INDEPENDENT FASHION
Gwendolynne launched her eponymous label in 1997, at The New Generation Show as part of Fashion Week in Greville Street Park. “It’s hard to believe it has now been evolving for close to three decades,” says Gwendolynne.
“Fashion has always felt like a natural language to me. From a very young age I was fascinated by beauty, history, emotion, fantasy, cinema, music, and mostly the play and transformative power of clothing. I studied fashion formally at RMIT at only 17 and then built my experience up at other companies and doing various projects and freelance jobs.
“I was never interested in fast trends. I was drawn to creating pieces that felt emotional, timeless, feminine, and artistic. That connected historical nostalgic influences with the woman of the times.
“Starting the brand came from a desire to create a world that reflected my own aesthetic vision rather than fitting into an existing one and making a positive impact on our planet,” Gwendolynne explains.
At the young age of six, Gwendolynne began sewing and creating garments with the help of her mother: “As a teen, long before my label officially existed, I worked in a fabric shop and used to pick up commissions there and for school friends. Creativity has always been part of my identity on many levels, not just clothing.”
When she finally launched her label, the designer thought simple was best, and chose her own name: “The brand simply carries my first name, Gwendolynne. It felt personal, romantic, and timeless, which aligned naturally with the spirit of the label,” she explains.
“In some beliefs when our spirit enters our body, we choose our name. My mother said she had no name chosen for me thinking I was to be a boy and my name kind of came to her. Initially she thought of Gwen and then she said, ‘is Gwendolynne a name?’ So my Mum and Dad went about how they might spell it. My father Michael, who spoke five languages, suggested spelling the ‘Lynne’ part the way you would spell it in French, so it is quite a unique take on the name.”
Once the name was chosen, Gwendolynne worked on the brand, growing it organically: “I started by creating small collections and custom pieces, showing work independently, building relationships through word of mouth, fashion festivals, editorials, and runway presentations. It evolved slowly and authentically over time rather than through a large commercial launch.”
For Gwendolynne, art has always been a central part of her creative inspiration: “My inspirations are quite eclectic. I’m inspired by Art Deco, Art Nouveau, old cinema, Pre-Raphaelite paintings, gothic romance, mythology, nature, music, and architecture as much as fashion itself,” she says.
“Designers such as Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Thierry Mugler, and the romanticism of early couture houses have inspired me, but I also draw inspiration from forests, poetry, antique textiles, and emotional experiences.”
Gwendolynne says that the core concept behind her work is “creating emotionally resonant fashion that feels timeless, soulful, feminine, and individual. I want people to feel transformed when they wear the garments, not disguised, but more deeply themselves.”
“The aesthetic is romantic, ethereal, darkly feminine, and detail driven, with influences of Art Deco elegance and bohemian mysticism. There is often a balance between softness and strength, structure and fluidity,” explains Gwendolynne.
INDEPENDENT AND DEEPLY PERSONAL
“I think one of the most important things about the brand is that it has remained deeply independent and personal for many years. In an increasingly fast and mass-produced world, I still value beauty, craftsmanship, individuality, emotion, and imagination,” says Gwendolynne.
“The garments are designed not only to be worn, but to create feeling, memory, confidence, and self-expression.”
For her upcoming collection, Gwendolynne says she has been “exploring the beauty of upcycling and working with deadstock fabrics to create soulful one-off pieces that feel rare, expressive, and deeply individual”.
“I love the idea of giving forgotten materials a second life and transforming them into something emotionally resonant and beautiful.
“Many of the garments combine remnants of very valuable French lace, beading, vintage inspired trims, and reclaimed textiles layered together in an intuitive and artistic way. The process feels almost like collage or storytelling through fabric. No two pieces are ever the same, which makes each garment feel personal and collectible.
“Aesthetically, the collection leans into an ethereal, romantic world that people often describe as ‘fairy core’ or elven inspired, with flowing silhouettes, delicate textures, soft luminosity, and a sense of fantasy and escapism.
“There’s a feeling of wandering through forests, folklore, old worlds, and dreamlike femininity, while still maintaining a contemporary edge.”
SLOW FASHION AND EMOTIONAL DESIGN
As with many designers who have been in the industry for a substantial time, Gwendolynne points out that she has always operated her brand “slowly and consciously”.
“Pieces are created in small quantities or made to order, with a strong focus on craftsmanship, longevity, and emotional connection rather than disposable fashion.
“I believe sustainability is also about creating garments people treasure and keep for many years. Supporting local craftsmanship and thoughtful production has always been important to the label,” she says.
“Sustainability for me is not only about reducing waste, although that is deeply important. It is also about slowing fashion down emotionally. I want people to form genuine connections with what they wear, to treasure garments, repair them, keep them, and see them as pieces of art rather than something disposable.
“Working with deadstock fabrics naturally limits overproduction and encourages creativity rather than excess. It pushes me to design more intuitively and responsively, allowing the materials themselves to guide the outcome.
“I think there is something beautiful about embracing imperfection, rarity, and resourcefulness in fashion rather than endless uniformity.”
Despite, or perhaps, because she has been in the fashion industry for decades, Gwendolynne has no plans to stop creating and making.
“My long-term goals are to continue evolving the label creatively while maintaining authenticity and artistry. I would love to expand further into collectible fashion, art-based projects, exhibitions, creative collaborations, and beautifully crafted lifestyle pieces while continuing to create meaningful couture experiences for clients.”
For more information about Gwendolynne, go to www.gwendolynne.com.au and follow the brand at @gwendolynne. To make an appointment, go to www.gwendolynne.com.au/contact
DESIGNER’S IMAGE Abhijit Pal