The idea to combine a store and an atelier in the same space was due mostly to practicalities like cost, and Jude’s desire to be close to his customers. Customer feedback is an important part of how he creates his designs, says Jude. His small team has a design assistant, a pattern-maker, and an intern.
Nathan Vann and Jaylah wearing Designed By Jude with hats by Carlisle Hats. Hair by Connie North at Poyo Hair; Makeup by Florencia Lagarini. Shot by Dylan McLardy
Ng’s style is a cross between Yohji Yamamoto, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood, his two original sources of inspiration, translated through his Singaporean heritage and Melbourne home.
Focusing on using materials that have an inbuilt soft and comfortable texture, using deadstock and eco-friendly fabrics, the pieces of his collections come in non-gendered designs that are flattering to all sexes.
Some of the designs have been so popular that they are recreated every season in new fabrics; customers become fans returning every collection to add to their Jude wardrobe.
“I am super anti fast fashion, my ethos is very focused on bringing back local production and local industry. There are so many talented makers in Australia so I want to give them work and keep the skills here,” says Jude.
Jaylah wearing Designed By Jude with hats by Carlisle Hats. Hair by Connie North at Poyo Hair; Makeup by Florencia Lagarini. Shot by Dylan McLardy
“And in terms of sustainability, in my practice I use a lot of deadstock fabrics sourced locally in Melbourne like Wall that does a lot of deadstock natural fibres. Natural fibres are also a focus for the brand; I find that it wears so much better, breathes so much better.
“Also, in my studio space I do a lot of upcycling. The store decor is all recycled and made using found materials … sustainability is such a part of our aesthetic.”
Originally a painter, Jude gradually found his work transforming via the addition of fabric to his work; three-dimensional soft sculptures morphed into wearable art, and eventually the art turned into fashion.
Additional training in cutting and pattern-making has seen the label grow into a mix of sharply tailored coats and jackets, combined with more voluminous draping and shaping. Recent collections have also seen a move towards multifunctional garments that can be adapted – skirts with scarves attached, long coats that can be shortened.
Layering is a core part of Jude’s design practice, influenced not only by Melbourne’s notoriously fickle weather, but also inspired by his connection to Asian traditional clothing.
That same influence is also behind Jude’s concept of non-gendered clothing, looking towards historical Asian costume for example of men in skirts, and women in trousers, as well as the influence of three older sisters who were tomboys in the ‘90s.
Nathan Vann wearing Designed By Jude with hats by Carlisle Hats. Hair by Connie North at Poyo Hair; Makeup by Florencia Lagarini. Shot by Dylan McLardy
“I wanted to cater to as many people as I could,” explains Jude, “When I started [designing] a lot of my clothes were free size, and I found that both women and men responded to it equally. And from there I realised that a lot of my shapes could become unisex.”
This focus on more loose-cut fittings, oversized shapes, few patterns and non-gendered colour choices became a part of Jude’s overall ‘clothes for everybody’ agenda.
Nathan Vann and Jaylah wearing Designed By Jude with hats by Carlisle Hats. Hair by Connie North at Poyo Hair; Makeup by Florencia Lagarini. Shot by Dylan McLardy
The idea of anti-fast fashion also runs through Jude’s central design aesthetic. With every collection being able to be worn back with pieces from previous seasons.
“Our customers can find pieces in the current collection that can be worn with pieces from collections four years ago. I want our customers to just keep on wearing their pieces until they wear out,” says Jude.
To shop Design By Jude go to designbyjude.com, or visit his store and atelier at 252 Johnston Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne. You can also follow the brand on Instagram at @designbyjude.
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